Few people have shaped East London’s creative scene like Mei Hui. From her early days selling upcycled designs in Portobello to curating underground warehouse parties and launching Victim Fashion Street on Fashion Street, her work has always blurred the lines between fashion, art, and cultural rebellion. Now, as part of the first Foldthe.world edition during SXSW at Spitalfields, she’s bringing that same fearless energy to a new generation of artists and audiences.
You’ve shaped East London’s fashion scene for over two decades. How does it feel to bring that creative energy to SXSW at Spitalfields?
It’s been quite a journey since I first came to East London in 1999. I started with a stall at Spitalfields Market, then opened my upcycled fashion boutique on Fashion Street in 2001. Back then, everything was spontaneous—great designers launching at market stalls, empty warehouses becoming fashion parties. Now, with SXSW coming to East London, I feel proud to showcase the creative community that’s grown here over the years, from long-standing artists to exciting new talent.
Secret Rendez-Vous became legendary for launching new talent. Will these new events carry that same spirit of discovery and connection?
Absolutely. That spirit is core to everything I do. I want to continue giving platforms to new designers, artists, and sustainable brands—from London and beyond. There’s nothing better than creating those unexpected connections.
Your journey from Portobello Market to Spitalfields is iconic. How has each place influenced your creative evolution?
Portobello gave me my start—people there embraced my playful, upcycled designs. Spitalfields, on the other hand, connected me more deeply to the art world. While I started as a fashion designer, East London transformed me into an artist. The community here pushed my work beyond clothing into performance, curation, and installation.
Spitalfields Market has evolved a lot. What’s your take on how it’s changed and what it offers now?
The redesign of the stalls by Sir Norman Foster initially worried some traders, but it’s brought a stylish, modern flair that suits today’s independent makers. I’ve curated events here—like the Voices of East London book launch—bringing together artists from the early 2000s and fresh talent like Philip and Charlotte Colbert. It transformed the market into something that rivalled any department store. That’s the magic of this place.
You speak of dressing up as transformation. How is fashion evolving in today’s digital era?
I’ve always designed for people who dress up every day—not to follow trends, but to express themselves. Artists are the ones pushing fashion now, not just designers. Digital expression is becoming more creative and individualistic, and I love how people use style as a form of identity and storytelling.
POP FUTURISM is gaining momentum. What’s your view on the future of wearable art, especially in Shoreditch?
While I stay rooted in vintage, wearable art is where fashion and culture merge. Shoreditch has always nurtured people who dare to be bold. I think wearable art, especially with deep connections to history and texture, will continue to hold value as the digital world expands.
You’ve worked with legends like Gilbert & George and Tim Yip. What’s the key to authentic creative collaboration?
It’s about shared values and mutual respect. Gilbert & George were my early inspirations—they supported me from my first boutique. Working on Tim Yip’s art documentary allowed me to reconnect with the artists from Secret Rendezvous and go deeper into their stories. East London gave us a stage to dream, and now our documentary Love Infinity gives us a spotlight to shine.
How do you see today’s creative community in Spitalfields compared to the late ’90s?
Spitalfields is one-of-a-kind. Despite the changes, the spirit remains. People still come from around the world, drawn by its history, energy, and creativity. Some of us have been here since the beginning, and we’re still passionate about keeping the scene alive.
Your Union Jack vintage pieces have been everywhere. Is there one piece you’d never part with?
My antique Union Jack pieces and vintage French lace are my signature. They’re rare and irreplaceable. I’ve been obsessed with those textiles since day one—and I always will be.
You’ve long supported young creatives. What’s your advice to new designers trying to break through in London?
It used to be easier when rents were low, but now it’s tough. Today’s designers need to be multi-skilled—create great work, build relationships, manage social media. But don’t focus on fame. Know your audience, stay sustainable, and take every opportunity to show your work in real life.
You’re part of the first edition of Foldthe.world. How did it come together—and what does it mean to you?
It started with Eulan, an old friend from my Portobello days. He saw my journey from the beginning, so this feels like a natural next step. If Andy Warhol had his Factory, Spitalfields is ours—a home where creativity continues to thrive.
What’s next after SXSW at Spitalfields?
I’m preparing my first photography-only exhibition, celebrating 25 years of Victim Fashion Street and Secret Rendezvous. It’s a tribute to all the incredible artists and collaborators I’ve worked with. I’m also curating a new space in Soho focused on bespoke, one-of-a-kind fashion. Just like the old Soho days, but reimagined for now.
xxx
This interview is part of Foldthe.world series. Foldthe.world is a collectable art poster distributed around Shoreditch, combined with curated insiders map helping you to shorten distance and time made by TOANDPARTNERS productions and supported by Made in Shoreditch Magazine.
Follow @foldthe.world on Instagram for the latest updates, interviews, and new additions to the creative map of East London.
